Southern Ireland - Eire

How can one begin to describe Southern Ireland? Most people think of Eire as a gentle place of rolling green hills and soft rain, famed for its world class golf courses, its fishing and its Guinness, populated by a warm and generous people, happy to welcome visitors. And they’re right; Eire is that, but that’s only the half of it.

This green and fertile island surrounded by the mighty Atlantic Ocean on the west and the Irish Sea to the east offers up nearly 1,500 km of spectacular coastline as well as a fascinating history that can be seen in its castles, ruins, monasteries and manor houses. It is a great place to enjoy a gentle-paced family seaside holiday too, away from ‘canned’ entertainment, fast food and ‘kiss me quick’ hats.

Along much of the coast are towering cliffs, clear fresh waters and pristine sandy beaches that are perfect places for water sports enthusiasts. After a morning on the beach, drive to one of the lively fishing villages that pepper the coastline where you’ll enjoy a yarn with the locals and eat some of the best seafood in the world. Each county has its own special characteristics and here we pick four of the most interesting ones to think about visiting.

Cork is Ireland’s largest County covering 640 kilometres of coastline with clean beaches, several with Blue Flag awards, and steep cliffs. Here you can book a day’s sea angling or scuba diving, rent canoes or simply potter on the beach. As one of its main ports, Cork connects Ireland to the UK and France and was until the 1960’s the embarkation point for steam ships leaving for the eastern seaboard of the USA. Cork is the place from where three million Irish emigrated to America in the 19th century to escape the potato famine and try to find their fortunes in the ‘new world’. Cork is also known as "Rebel County" because many uprisings occurred here during the period of the War of Independence (1919 to 1922) and the civil war so it’s a fascinating place to explore. If you’re interested in history and heritage, then the City of Cork should feature in your itinerary for at least a day. Some of the sights not to be missed are Shandon Church, a striking building erected in 1722 by the Protestants; climb its steeple for an unparalleled panoramic view of the whole city. St. Finbarr’s Cathedral is another. It was built in 1865 in the French Gothic style and is on the exact spot of the vault containing the remains of the 6th century founder of the city of Cork. The Butter Exchange, so named because it was the place from where salted butter was exported in the 18th and early 19th centuries, is the centre for artisans selling jewellery, ceramics, Irish woollen clothing and fine porcelain. Lastly, visit Cork Museum, located in an old brewery, to learn of the tumultuous history of the city and also Cork City Jail, set out today as a museum recalling the life of the inmates.

Down in the south westernmost tip of the island in County Kerry is the Ring of Kerry, a subtropical landscape bathed by an agreeable climate created by the effects of the warm Gulf Stream. It has the dramatic Kerry Mountains as a backdrop. Here you can enjoy a round of golf on a course that is flanked by Kenmare Bay and the Kerry Mountains and set beside the ruins of Derryquin Castle on the shores of the picturesque Kenmare River, two miles from the town on Sneem. There’s also river, lake and deep-sea fishing in the area, cruises around Kenmare Bay, cycling and excellent walks.

The county of Limerick is also located in the south-west of Ireland where the River Shannon, the longest river in the British Isles and one of the finest in Europe widens before meeting the Atlantic. This county has a very rich history and when you tour around here you’ll see many fine castles and manor houses, some of which you can book accommodation in. Those interested in finding out about Ireland’s rich and often troubled history should visit the town of Limerick and spend time at the city museum and museum of hunting. Other lovely towns in this county include Castleconnell on the River Shannon and Adare, with its old houses with thatched roofs and medieval churches.

The undulating landscapes of County Limerick give this area a quiet rural charm and it’s the perfect place to enjoy a round of golf on one of the many public courses, sit quietly on the banks of the river to fish or go horse riding.

County Roscommon is an inland county situated between the River Shannon to the east, and the Suck River to the west. This is essentially an area of plains, hills and beautiful, tranquil lakes – or loughs as they are known in Ireland. Roscommon is less well known than many other counties in Ireland and therefore less touristy. It’s the birthplace of Douglas Hyde, the first president of Ireland, and of Oscar Wilde’s father. One of the most beautiful places in the whole of Roscommon is Boyle Forest Park which has lakeside and forest walks through ancient parkland. Likely to particularly appeal to children are the Park’s lake, fairy bridge, rhododendron bog walk and Irelands first tree-canopy walk. They might also enjoy visiting Roscommon Castle which was built in 1269 and dominates the north of the town. Across town lie the ruins of a 13th century Abbey containing the tomb of High King of Connaught, Felim O’Connor. Strokestown House is close by too. It has galleried kitchens and drawing rooms and bedrooms that are full of antique toys. There is also a recently built annexe there that houses the famine museum and outside, walled gardens that have been restored to their original Victorian splendour and where you can buy delicious organic vegetables.

Cycling around the quiet, seldom too steep, roads of Ireland is, perhaps, the best way of all to see both the countryside and some of the ‘built’ sites that inform the island’s history. It’s often best to join a pre-planned route to ensure you don’t miss the best bits and one of the finest of all is the Lough Ree and Shannon cycling tour that covers an impressive 258km and rarely climbs above 120 metres. It follows along the quiet waters of river and lake passing some of the most famous of the old monasteries the finest of which is Clonmacnois. This is still a place of pilgrimage after 1500 years. The route takes in Lough Ree before moving on to Roscommon town then heading north to Clonalis, the birthplace of the descendants of the kings of Ireland. Towards the end of the circuitous journey cyclists ride over the bog of Ballymahon, then down by Lough Ennel to finish at Kilbeggan.

If Ireland has captured your imagination, why not tuck some Euros in your wallet and book a flight or ferry into Dublin or Cork and visit this magical and welcoming island soon?