
Forest of Dean
The Forest of Dean was designated England’s first National Forest Park in 1938 and today remains our largest oak woodland with over 20 million trees spread over 27,000 acres. It is in an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty in Western Gloucestershire between the glorious Wye Valley and the River Severn and was at one stage the hunting ground of Norman kings. During a visit here you’ll discover ancient Forest Laws: King Canute is believed to have introduced these in around 1016 when he appointed Verderers to protect the trees, deer and wild boar. One law remaining in practise today is the ancient right bestowed upon foresters – or sheep badgers as they were called in Norman times - which allowed them to turn their sheep out into the forest to graze. They still roam free today. Legend also has it that King Edward II first bestowed free mining rights on foresters during his reign in the 14th Century because he wanted to reward them for their tunnelling efforts under the town walls of Berwick-upon-Tweed that helped him break a siege. It may be that this same King’s generosity contributed towards the Forest’s near destruction three centuries later when the woodland was almost destroyed because the miners turned to charcoal making to fire their furnaces.
The Dean Heritage Centre in a converted mill in the Soudley Valley, tells the history of the forest informed by its industrial heritage of mining and charcoal burning and it history dating back to the Neolithic and Bronze Ages. Its 20,000 displays help to piece it all together. Outside, characterful Old Spot pigs snuffle beside a Victorian forester’s cottage.
Something of a cultural hotbed today, the Forest of Dean has been termed “Britain’s rural capital of culture”, a deserving name because there are many arts and crafts workshops dotted around the forest. If you holiday here in the summer during the Forest and Valley Open Studios you’ll be able to meet jewellers, sculptors, stained-glass artists, painters and furniture designers and see them at work – or why not join one of the many workshops and courses that they run and learn a new skill? Another option for a wonderful few hours is a visit to the Sculpture Trail at Beechenhurst. This is a gentle 3 ½ mile trail with 17 hidden sculptures along the way, mostly made from natural material found in the forest including ‘Heart of Stone’ fashioned from locally quarried sandstone. Melissa’s swing which rings with metallic music, an eerie sound in the midst of the woods, is another treasure to seek out during your stroll around the trail.
Adventurous types will find that there’s plenty do in and around the Forest of Dean. For water-based fun, head for the River Wye and you can go canoeing, kayaking and white-water rafting. If you are one of the millions of anglers in this country then the picturesque River Wye and its tributaries and a variety of still water ponds and lakes with all-ability pegs will guarantee some excellent coarse and game fishing.
Back in the Forest and in keeping with its history, try caving in the network of former mines or a spot of climbing and even abseiling. Petrol-heads can take part in some off-road driving in a quarry near the market town of Coleford or, if you’re a rally enthusiast you’ll be interested to know that the 2010 Wyedean Forest Rally, one the best one-day Forest stage rallies in the UK, takes place this year on Saturday February 13th. Cyclists can choose (with their own bike or one that’s hired locally) to take a circular route following former railway lines which is perfect for a gentle day with the family. Those wanting a two-wheeled adrenaline rush might prefer to scope out the trickier tracks and slopes to be found on the Forest cycleways that in total extend to about 125 miles suiting most standards of cyclist.
Ramblers have lots of waymarked paths to choose from. For long-distance walking enthusiasts, there’s the 136 mile Wye Valley Walk which is a mix of hill and river walking and Offa’s Dyke Path. The latter was opened the summer 1971 and along its entire 177 miles links Sedbury Cliffs near Chepstow on the banks of the Severn estuary with the coastal town of Prestatyn on the shores of the Irish Sea. It passes through 8 different counties, including the Wye Valley, hence it’s inclusion here and it’s entirely possible to just walk part of the trail which is named after King Offa and follows for much of the route the spectacular Dyke which he ordered to be built in the 8th century, probably to divide his Kingdom of Mercia from rival kingdoms in what is now Wales. If you’re exhausted just thinking about Offa’s Dyke, try the gentler four mile Mailscot Wood Trail that meanders along a high ridge above the River Wye giving unparalleled views down to the gorge.
Golf enthusiasts will find about twelve courses in the area, several of which are pay and play. There are also two championship courses in the region.
Because the Forest of Dean is a diverse area of farmland, woods, rivers and orchards you can be sure that you’ll be well fed, enjoying some delicious meals and picnics created from local fresh and seasonal produce. Feast on locally caught wild salmon, homemade cakes and bread from artisan bakers, venison, orchard fruits and organic juices and extraordinary local cheeses including Stinking Bishop (made famous by Wallace and Gromit) and some wonderful Single and Double Gloucester Cheeses made on a local farm. And to wash it all down, try an English wine from the Forest’s vineyards – there are several around that you can tour and enjoy tastings – or seek out local beers and ciders and perry varieties.
If during your holiday the mood takes you to explore further afield, the Forest makes a great base. Take a leisurely drive through the rolling hills of The Cotswolds with its honey-coloured limestone cottages and pretty villages. Visit the charming market town of Cirencester, or Cheltenham Spa which is one or the most complete Regency towns in England or the city of Gloucester with it striking cathedral where King Edward II is buried and where several scenes from the Harry Potter films were shot in the Cathedral cloisters.